Monday, 27 February 2012

Sleeve developments.

I lined the jacket, tacked in the shoulder pads, and looked at it on the stand. The fit seems good and everything hangs nicely. I have therefore decided to fully make up and line the sleeves, and tack them into the armholes, for the fitting.

Providing they hang correctly for the model, I will then machine them in, finish the linings, and add fastenings.

I went back to the initial sleeve draft, which I had completed according to instructions in Aldrich (2002). Although I was happy with the fit around the arm, the sleeve head had no ease, and the proportion of the Upper to the Lower sleeve was also too large. I have therefore decided to re-draft the sleeve according to Graham's method for male tailoring. I will simply make any measurement guidelines slightly smaller.

This method has proved much easier, and it was simple to draft a squarer sleeve head. however my new problem was that the draft was giving me too much ease in the under-sleeve!

I had a two options: either raise the Back Pitch, or cut a higher sleeve head.  Graham advised me to cut a sleeve in calico and look at it, to see if it worked; and if not, to try the second option for the other side. I decided to cut the sleeve with a higher sleeve head, which puts more cloth in the sleeve. I made this decision based on the fact that the shoulder pads had raised the jacket by quite a lot, and that there was therefore a section of the jacket (nearly 1") which needed to be covered, but which wasn't necessarily going to need a lot of consideration in terms of movement. In other words, more fabric here should cover the edge shoulder pad, rather than being baggy and excess.

I pinned in the sleeve roughly and tried it on. It hung really nicely and even though it was pinned in, and not carefully eased, I felt that it really worked. The alteration, instead, should be around the elbow, where it was too pointy.

I am now happy and confident in proceeding to cut and make up my sleeve.  Graham's help with the alterations has shown me that I should take charge of a draft and make alterations where necessary, rather than feeling restricted by the instructions. I am becoming more and more confident in my decision-making, both with pattern drafting and making. Also, the more experience I have with things which are not immediately correct, the better, as it will aid me in continually improving my practice.

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