I intend to work on two projects during EMP, both of which have been carefully chosen in order to develop areas of making which I have not yet been able to explore. As I have had little experience in making costumes to fit women during my time at AUCB, I have decided to focus specifically on women’s wear in order to further my knowledge of the complexities and challenges of creating fitted period garments for women. I have chosen to examine the cut and construction of 1930s women’s wear as this period incorporates a variety of dressmaking styles due to the recent introduction of bias-cutting, and the fact that etiquette in dress was still practiced. I therefore am taking the opportunity to make two different outfits which involve very different types of making.
For the first half of EMP I will focus on applying what I have learnt in studying tailoring to women’s wear by making a suit as worn by Joan Crawford in the 1935 film No More Ladies (Griffith, 1935). I will research tailoring for women in order to discover which elements of men’s bespoke tailoring, if any, are transferable. I will then work to create a suit to a high standard, which may incorporate techniques correct to a Hollywood costume workroom.
For the second half of EMP I will make a bias-cut evening dress, chosen from a 1930s fashion plate. I have had very little experience in working with bias-cut fabric and as such, fully anticipate to be greatly challenged by this project. I have chosen a design with construction interest but minimal decoration, so that I can focus in developing and heightening my making abilities.
To research this project I intend to look at various books on the period as well as on couture sewing techniques. Additionally when possible I will examine historical garments from around the period, in order to try to understand the construction. Completing these two projects will allow me to expand my portfolio of making skills, and allow me to become a more versatile maker. I will continue to work as independently as possible in order to expand upon my own problem-solving abilities.